An Pan

Japan traditionally has relied on rice as their staple grain, so breads haven't played a large role.  In fact, when I was in Japan, in the early 90's, most people I knew didn't even own an oven larger than a largish toaster oven.  (Try baking bread in that . . . I did . . .)

But despite the lack of bread varieties in Japanese history, one of the great pleasures I had while there was eating a bread which can only be described as Japanese:  an pan.  The word "pan" comes from Portuguese and is the Japanese word for "bread".  "An" is also known as "anko", a sweet bean paste.

An pan is made in many forms.  In any grocery or corner store, there are sold pre-packaged an pan looking something like two small pancakes, with an anko filling.  At certain vendor stands (or in the lower-level section of certain department stores, sort of like a deli section) there are people who make an pan in molds, pouring in a batter and adding a dollop of anko in the middle, which is covered with more batter.  The an pan is commonly in the form of a circle, but my favorite was actually shaped like a fish.

Last February, my family and I went to a Japan cultural festival in Phoenix, where my girls got to taste, for the first time, anko in a yeast-raised sweet bun.  When we returned home, I looked up a recipe.

It was not terribly easy to find, and when I did find a couple, I ended up synthesizing them to make one I really preferred, which is why I am not providing any links.

First, however, in order to make anko buns, you need anko.  If you are lucky enough to live near an Oriental mart which carries canned anko, life becomes much simpler.  If, however, you are like me, or if you'd rather just learn to do the whole process from start to finish, you will have to make your own anko.  Rather than make this page enormously long by including the anko recipe, as well, I am putting it in its own post, which can be found here.

Once you have your anko, you're ready to start working on the dough for the bun.

Ingredients:

1 package active, dried yeast (about a little less than a Tablespoon of the kind I use)
1 1/4 cup of warm milk (or warm water and the amount of powdered milk to make it milk)
3 Tablespoons margarine
1/2 cup sugar
3/4 teaspoon of salt
2 eggs
4 1/2 cups flour (as needed)
2.5 cups anko

For topping (optional):
1 egg yolk or melted butter
Toasted sesame seeds

Dissolve the yeast in the warm milk (or water, if you're using powdered milk), with the sugar.  Remember to have the milk at around 105-110 degrees Fahrenheit, so the yeast will dissolve nicely, but not be killed.  Slightly melt the margarine in a cup in the microwave.  (It doesn't have to be totally melted.)

In a stand mixer, add 2 cups of the flour and the salt.  Add the yeast mixture and stir.  Add the margarine and the eggs.  (If you are using a bread hook, it's a good idea to beat them a little first.)  Continue adding flour until the dough pulls away from the sides of the mixer bowl.  Pour a little oil in the bowl, allow the dough hook to turn the dough around to spread the oil, then stop mixing.  Remove the dough hook, turn the dough upside down, and cover the bowl with a damp cloth.  (For more detailed directions on mixing a yeast dough in a stand mixer, visit this page.)

Before rising . . .

This dough is rather slow-rising.  Check it after an hour and see if it has more or less doubled in size.  If not, make sure the cloth is still damp and check it 20 minutes or so later.

After rising . . .

When the dough is finished rising, turn it out on a lightly floured surface and divide into fourths.  This recipe ends up making roughly 3 dozen buns, but as I find dividing doughs in thirds to be cumbersome, I settle for 32.  In this way, I can divide in halves, then halves, etc.  Each fourth will be divided into 8 portions.  Roll each portion into a ball.

Roll each ball to a circle about 4 inches in diameter.

Place about a rounded teaspoonful of anko into the center of the circle.

Bring the dough around to cover it, using water to seal the dough, if necessary.  (I find it necessary.)  I bring the dough around in much the same fashion as the center of a pinwheel, bit by bit, all the way around.  (There has to be a proper cooking term for it, but I have no idea what it is.  I learned it by examining steamed Asian buns . . .)

Place the bun, seam side down, on a greased baking sheet.

Allow the buns to rise, covered, again, by a damp cheesecloth or paper towel, for about an hour or so.

Preheat the oven to 375 degrees Fahrenheit.  If desired, brush the buns with melted butter or egg yolk and sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.  (I used melted butter and skipped the sesame seeds this time . . .)

Bake in the 375 degree oven for 15 minutes, until golden brown.

Remove from the tray and allow the buns to cool.

This makes a fun snack which my daughters love.  I prefer to heat mine a few seconds in the microwave, if they have cooled completely, but they are also good at room temperature.